Recent content by UrgentDelay

Did you mean a layer of grease by saying "coat"? Yes, I think the bearings should be fine now, thanks for making this build possible.

Obviously the new effective stem length and handlebar height resulting in a totally different riding position. Better pedal clearance for off-road is an important factor too. I pimped the parts that fit well, you can't just bolt anything onto that bike

It took me quite some time to find fitting parts and accessories, so maybe someone will find this post useful Installed parts: - FSA steerer cover, credit to @CiscoComo (part of headset No.55R 1.5" the cover is part #H2285, discussion over here...

Job done. I actually ordered a red bike too, but they sent a black one. It turned out well though. I especially like how the Mastermind screen aligned with a mounted smartphone, which fitted perfectly in the handlebar's curve. Lots of work in general: finding fitting bags, shims, spacers etc...

Thank you for a thorough reply, that's the exact problem I meant. What I did just now is I applied a super thick layer of grease, squeezed out the excess with the top cover and it seems to be sitting pretty flush. No idea on how long it will last, but surely it won't hurt anything just being there.

Did you guys use any seal below the steerer bearings cover to protect them from water etc.? I bought the exact same FSA part and now there seems to be a pretty wide gap between the cover and the frame. Thanks!

Nice work. How would you evaluate the handling and position after the swap? You've increased the reach a lot. I would recommend sizing down the frame when attempting to do that. I'm just about to go through the same process. Unfortunately, they run out of red-coloured frames, but the black one...

So my table represents what it should look like if everything worked correctly and can be used as a reference point.

Why make a survey, this just needs to be calculated - see attachment

@Bavi try switching to shorter crank arms, lack of stability in the saddle signals this problem. Here is a cheap alternative: https://365cycles.com/products/samox-e3-br-crank-arm-set-155mm-specialized-w-brose-isis-spindle-0mm-offset-right-5mm-offset-left-black

Glad to see you're still here, it means the bike didn't fall apart. I'm just pondering about the centre of gravity and handling at lower speeds. Doesn't the bike feel twitchy when going slow? Btw it seems that the crank arms can be replaced with shorter Samox E3 SH JIS, which could help with...

@CiscoComo what mount did you use for the Mastermind computer? I wonder whether a regular Garmin mount would fit. Did you consider bolting it directly to the stem cap?

Anything below 65 is killing your knees, so probably that was the reason behind the previous setup. I myself pedal at average cadence of 93 (including freewheeling etc.), so it's around 97 on flats and 110 during efforts. Bosch allows you to just enter a number, like a reasonable person would...

I bet it must feel much more sporty, and funnily as it has a slacker / more mtb-like head tube angle than the Vado, it might be better suited for descending and off-road. Just be aware when going gravel, that its BB height is 10 mm lower than that of Vado, so swapping to a shorter crank might be...

Why wouldn't they just let users enter it manually, like Bosch does. It's just Apple's "the user has no brain" attitude.