Recent content by BigMatt

I suspect your 36 volt batteries are limited well below the ~42 AMPs required to power 3000 Watts (72V x 41.7 AMPs ~5,000 Watts). While you double your volts running in series, the AMPs are constrained by the minimum AMPs put out by either of the two batteries. I don’t think there are many...

What’s the use case? City commute, off-road, portability (folding), distance, etc.? Build vs buy? Are you mechanically inclined? If you’re not capable of building, repairing or servicing your own ebike, you probably should buy from your closest e-bike shop.

Hi Harry, Long time no speak. Just to add to the build v buy concept, I think if you need a bike to fold (throw in the trunk or keep in a closet), the efficacy of buying over building makes sense as building a folding ebike could be challenging. I’ve thought about building a custom folding...

I bought the joysi one for my brother-in-law who built a 1200 Watt Kit, so I know that works: Joyisi 52V 14AH / 48V 12.5 Ebike Battery for 1500W / 1000W Bike Motor, Lithium ion Bike Battery with Charger, USB Port, BMS Protection Board and Battery Level Light...

I sold one on Craigslist. I asked the gentleman who test road it to let me hold his drivers license as collateral while he road it.

I have the rack (link below) and can confirm it’s very sturdy as far as bike racks go, but I don’t have any specs on it. https://www.ecotric.com/collections/fenders-rack/products/rear-rack-for-20-fat-tire-folding-electric-bike

That’s a good looking bike. The following is my Ebikeling kits: 1) 1200 Watt fat (26 inch) bike front and rear hubs. 80 AMP hours, but configurable to 120 AMP hours (if I add more batteries to front bag). Bike name is Weapons Grade... Great for Midwest winter riding, city commuting with...

Oh, I definitely hit overkill a while ago on Weapons Grade. My Trek 700c EBike is the practical bike. Weapons Grade is an ongoing experiment (in insanity). I might enjoy the process of building and tweaking ebikes even more than riding them. (If I cared about battery life efficiency, I’d...

Mine usually hits pretty quick. Maybe a quarter to half a crank. I generally use throttle to get moving from a dead start then pedal from there.

I actually have given real thought to doing that. I’ll know I’ve lost my mind completely when I order the midrive kit. At that point, 80 Amp hours might only get me 20 miles... but I’d get there fast.

I think by setting P08 (see link for directions) to 32 KMH will essentially cap you out at 20 MPH assist whether you’re on setting 3, 4 or 5. 1 and 2 (and maybe 3) will be slower. On the Ebikeling Kit, the 1-5 settings apply to both the throttle and PAS. You can also adjust it so you can turn...

I don’t know if the bafang cable works with it, but the ebikeling kit display panel (for the 1200 or 1500 W kits) allow you to program the stop speed in KM/H. Set it to 32 KM/H (20 MPH) and it will stop helping you there. (I usually set it to 100 KM / Hr for no limit other than motor limit)...

The most important factor on my traffic-heavy commute seems to be how many red lights I hit or not. On my faster bike, I spend more time at red lights than my slower (with less torque) bikes, but my overall commuting time doesn’t change much. On non-rush hour more open-road stretches it...

Let’s face it. If I’m riding an EBike in downtown Chicago rush hour traffic, I have to be pretty risk tolerant. (And a $5 million umbrella liability policy I own helps. #moralhazard. Although chances are any meaningful accident I cause makes my life, health and disability’ insurance more...

Sorry if I came on a little strong. Allusions that I might be committing fraud or being a poor role model for my children do that. That being said, your use of pronouns made it implicit rather than explicit, so I’m only implicitly offended. 😉 By the way, Chicago city government and the...