Recent content by Allan47.7339

The lights connect through the Mastermind H3 and are not part of the CAN system. The on/off switch is also not part of the CAN system unless there is a fault in the light splitter connector that connects the lights and on/off switch into the system. It seems like they would have replaced that...

Waxing has gotten easier because there are some products to do the initial chain prep to clean off the factory grease. I use a Silca product but there are others. You don't need ultrasonic cleaners etc that you may find references in older tutorials. The Zero Friction site has a lot of info...

I upgraded my classic TCU to a MM TCU just to make my two Creo's the same. After a couple of years ignoring it, I finally tried Microtune. I have to admit the people who raved about in this forum it were correct.

A simple google search resulted in "The ride.specialized portal and legacy Ride app ecosystem have been transitioned into the unified Specialized App." You can't expect them to pay to maintain a legacy site that nobody uses. It's like going to the grocery store looking for a favorite...

Start shopping for your next chain now. The XG-1275 is my preferred cassette and I have it on both of my Creo's. Poor chain maintenance will eat up an expensive cassette in no time. I recommend the SRAM CN-EAGL-X01-A1. I personally wax my chains every two or three weeks depending on miles...

Since you are going for the XG-1275 cassette, I would also upgrade to the X01 Eagle Chain chain with hard coating. You don't really need the flat top version but SRAM is making the less expensive non-flat top harder to find. You don't want cheaper NX chain or poor chain maintenance eating up an...

Take it back to the shop. They probably did not correctly install the main battery connector. I assume when you look at the TCU it does not show either the blue bars (original version TCU) or 150% if you have the MasterMind version TCU. The system is designed to work with just a RE. The RE...

Did you do it your self or by a shop? Even if you did it yourself the shop needs to use the Specialized Studio software to sync everything. As far as not starting, the main battery connector may not be seated correctly but the shop should see that when it's connected to the program.

Tubeless isn't work less. I use tubeless because it has significantly reduced my side of the road repair time. You need to check the tire pressure every time you ride. If you measure the time between flats in years or once a year, it's may not be worth it. If you get a lot of little leaks...

Discipline is the most important component of chain maintenance. Wax or oil is a distant second if you don't clean, measure and maintain on a schedule. What chain wear tool are you using? Some are more accurate than others. I prefer the Park CC-4 as cheap and accurate.

Next time you have it apart, take a photo of the bottom of the head tube and bearing seat. It will help people who have not taken their bikes apart see what it looks like. Some people think the bearings are still pressed in.

No just an owner. The last few years of working I was bicycle commuting about 20 miles each way so I learned to do my own maintenance to keep on the road. Actually I misspoke, I think I just replaced the cranks not the bottom bracket. The mention of a wave washer jogged my memory.

It's a common problem with the ISSIS type spindle which is why they fell out of favor. They work great as long as they are installed properly and kept tight. The Turbo S used that type of crank and I had one fall off on a ride many years ago. It was not good until I replaced the bottom...

OK. I thought you were referring to the steerer tube which is part of the fork assembly not the handlebar stem.

I don't think that is a precise enough answer if it referencing a Vado SL. The steerer tube is customized for the future shock system. As far as I know it's not a standard diameter. Example is to delete the future shock, you need a custom part...